Empty Glasses

Before heading to TasteCamp 2010 in the Finger Lakes, we knew that we would taste some really good riesling. After all, the region is renowned for its whites and each winery has (at least!) a couple of rieslings in their portfolio.

The first bang of the weekend came right at the beginning of the first tasting, held on Friday afternoon at Heron Hill Winery. The 2002 Heron Hill Ingle Vineyard Riesling exploded with this petrol character that we love from older rieslings and was backed with some fruity character. At its peak right now, it drinks beautifully and is still fresh and crisp as one would expect from riesling. Poured along with the 2007, which was an unusually warm vintage in the Finger Lakes, we could really see where the 2007 is heading (and it’s the right direction!). At 15$ for the 2007 and 20$ for the 2002, they represent great values and set the table for the rest of the weekend.

After going around Keuka Lake, we ended at Ravines Wine Cellars, for our second riesling treat of the weekend. It is hard for me to pick just one, as we were treated with their dry riesling from 2006, 2007 and 2008. All three offerings show a clear and assumed style. These bone-dry rieslings (0.3% RS) are made for the long run as even the oldest of the three was still razor-sharp, with the structure and acid which will hold this wine together for years to come. The same holds for the Riesling Argetsigner Vineyard 2008, a single vineyard offering made of fruit from the land farmed by Sam Argetsigner, which we had the chance to visit the next morning. Clearly, a winemaker with a vision.

Riesling vertical at Fox Run

The vertical tasting of Fox Run’s rieslings gets my vote for the most educational event of the weekend. The first flight, composed of Reserve 2008, Dry 2003, 2002 and 2001 rieslings, and the second flight, made of Semi-Dry rieslings (2008, 2006, 2003 and 2001), really put forward how Finger Lakes Riesling ages with time. As with the Heron Hill Ingle Vineyard Riesling on the first day, these wines really show their full potential after 6-7 years. For the record, the Dry Riesling 2002 and Semi-Dry 2001 were my favourites.

To be ranked along the most intriguing experiences of the weekend was the tank samples which were poured at Hermann J. Wiemer. Drawn directly from the fermenting tank (photo from the New York Cork Report), we were given the opportunity to taste how the “HJW Vineyard” and the “Magdalena Vineyard” rieslings from 2009 were coming along. Not being used to wine at this stage, it was quite interesting. We could sense all the elements in there, but did not know exactly what to make of them. Given the rest of the lineup at this event, I’m sure that Fred Merwarth and his team will be able to put it all together.

Bottom line? They know how to make great riesling in the FInger Lakes. It’s the most consistent varietal which we were given to taste over the weekend and it keeps you asking for more…!

With Day One of TasteCamp EAST 2010 drawing to a close, we can draw a quick conclusion: the Finger Lakes is really a land made for riesling, but it’s not then good thing coming out of this region.

Sunset at Red Newt Bistro

During the course of the day, we’ve been lucky enough to have been treated with great care by the fine folks at Heron Hill Winery (who hosted the lunch and noon tasting which regroped many producers around Keuka Lake), at Ravines Wine Cellars (with an afternoon tasting of a large part of their lineup) and at Red Newt Bistro (who hosted the dinner and organized a tasting along with Fox Run and Anthony Road). I’ll come back with more details once I’ve decanted my experience, as there is a lot to say.

As one would expect, not all wines were excellent, but some have pulled ahead of the pack. I’m quickly thinking of Heron Hill’s Ingle Vineyard Riesling 2007, which after tasting the 2002 will make you wonder how long it will last. The dry rieslings from Ravines are straight, focused and have a clear plan in mind, which holds up remarkably well over the three vintages which were presented to us. I was also surprised by the general quality of the red wines presented by Red Newt, Anthony Road and Fox Run, not only the collaboration Tierce 2007 in red (and from 2004 to 2006 in riesling), but the Merlot, the Syrah (!) and the Cabernet Franc/Lemberger.

I am sure that Day Two will bring as much pleasure, discoveries and enjoyment. It will take me a while to sort through everything, but I can take one thing for granted: there will be lots to talk about.